Phrase by 'John John Florence'
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The place where I grew up is the center of surfing. Everyone who grows up on the North Shore surfs, and from October to March, you have the best waves in the world within a 5- to 7-mile stretch. I grew up in the center of these incredible sunsets and all these incredible waves. And then we have the Triple Crown of Surfing.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteYou , World , Best , October
There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can take off on a ten-foot wave and get hurt. You just don't think about it at all. You just go for it. When you kick out of a really big wave, it feels pretty damn good. You want to do it again.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteYou , Think , Good , Hurt
I'm excited to go surfing every time. I have fun in any kind of wave in the ocean.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteTime , Fun , Ocean , Have Fun
I still get scared every time I go out. I get scared taking off; I get scared on the wave, falling, everything. But, you know, growing up with it, I guess you're a little more comfortable.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteYou , Time , Growing Up , Know
When you start forcing things, that's when you get hurt.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteYou , Start , Things , Hurt
I'd be in elementary school all week, and then on the weekend, my mom would take us to Kauai or to the Big Island or to California for a contest. That was really fun.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteMom , School , Fun , Weekend
The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteYou , Moment , Family , Best
That's such a common saying: Just be present, live in the moment. But there's actually really something to it when you really start to learn it.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteYou , Moment , Live , Saying
One of my biggest influences growing up was Jamie O'Brien. He was like an older brother to me.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteMe , Growing Up , Like , Brother
Africa is one of my favorite places because there are so many things to do - either surfing or going to see the animals. You can drive two hours or six hours up the coast - or just 15 minutes up the road - and it's probably something you haven't seen before.
Author: John John Florence - American AthleteYou , See , Drive , Road
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